Archive for June 2008

On blood and oil

June 30, 2008

On blood and oil

Okay today, I just had a flat out, riding on an 8 lane high-way, haha, something new.

After the rear was flat, I walked like 2 city blocks dragging my bike along with my gear before I got a repair shop on sight. Okay, upon getting there, the dude said right away “Sir we don’t have anything to remove them kind of tires”. So I said I’d be the one taking the tires off, I have the tool. Okay, so removed then fixed. So I waited like 30 minutes under the straight 12nn sun and have to sit on a rock beside a nasty smelling creek, nice. Anyway, moving on, the tire was fixed, it was a pinch hole not that bad. Then m about to get the tire in then it snapped out of my hand and the sprocket and the chain guide sandwiched my pointer, hehe bloody mess, the entire sprocket tooth was completely inside my finger, creepy, i cannot even get a photo of the bloody mess, but good thing, bike was in good shape and the day was ended with a great “Wanted” movie with the one.


Medical Benefits

June 30, 2008

Medical Benefits

My dad just went through one of the worst services with regard to his medical benefits from the company that I am working for.

Okay so after 4 years this is the first time we used Prudential Life for our so called medical partner and somehow not too happy about it. So my dad went to World Citi Medical Center where his physician is and was since we used Medicard in the office. The usual routine was, go to the Medicard counter (anytime of the day) present your card, after around 3 minutes, you go the receipt and a referral to a doctor of your choice, you do it until your limit, no problem about it. Then comes Prudential life, not a week after it was issued, a lot of complaints came in about the service that when this is used on hospitals, you are like treated as a low-life, non-paying what-so-ever (sorry about that), imagine, my dad fasted since 9pm, was in the hospital 8:30am and then someone named Irene (a representative of Prudential life) said that they only honour Pudential Life card holders from 2:30 PM onwards but let my dad wait until it was 9:30 to let him and others in line know, what if you’re dying? Well I guess you can’t talk to God to give you at least until 2:30 PM. Maybe that’s why they got a dirty finger from another patient. Imagine, then letting you wait then telling you that you have to wait more because the forgot to tell you to wait, c’mon!!!

Hopefully the year won’t end with us using prudential life, but at least March, we’ll have a diff company, hopefully not them again.

Cleaning and lubricating your clutch and brake cables

June 29, 2008

Cleaning and lubricating your clutch and brake cables


1 foot of cheap masking tape

½ foot scotch tape

5 tbsp gas / diesel

5 tbsp tranny oil, 10w40

Scissors to cut the tapes

1. Okay, remove the cables, both from levers, clutch and front brakes.

2. Make a funnel out of the packing tape.

3. Seal the funnel with the scotch tape.

4. Place some gas on the funnel then with a masturbating movement; pump the gas flow all the way down to the end of the cable.

5. Once the BLACK gas drains, put another 3 tbsp of gas then let it drain too, at this point, the gas that will be drained will be clear (well at least clearer than the first wave.

6. Once the gas is drained, put the oil on the funnel, with the same movement; let it flow all the way down. Let the oil flow down, you won’t need too much oil on the cables.

7. Put it back together and you’re all set.

Manny Pacquiao Vs David Diaz

June 29, 2008

Manny Pacquiao Vs David Diaz, two of the best southpaw in lightweight division, you can’t ask for anything more. The fight was ended by a bloddy knock out and 1 was crowned the best pound for pound fighter to date. Great fight, go Filipino pride!!!

MRA Race Track

June 27, 2008

MRA Race Track was like on the better race tracks here in my area, compact, well placed jumps, steep inclines, high turns, good stutters and a fresh location. The reason why I posted the MX tips yesterday is that I just came from MRA race track and somehow shocked about what I saw.

On the entrance of the track, you will see high bushes, not that high, but enough for you to look for a track, it’s almost like trailing fresh mountains and hills, wherein the road is corroded but heavy rains and all that’s left are rocks and deep ruts on the road. My favourite turn was eaten by grass, a little slippery but doable. All the high jump faces were unmake-able, because on the feet of the jump is a river (well not a river, but a bike length of running water), it really is like trailing.

So further on the track is the turn before the stutters, well you will know it is a turn when you’ve been there, but if not, it is just a puddle of peg-deep mud, I know, because got soaked, I mean dipped. A part of the stutter was erased from the track, but a part of it is still good, and right after the stutter is a good jump. So what m I to do, well I enjoyed the time instead of despairing, I made my own way, did a couple of laps and did some more. The steep incline and decline was still there, but even more challenging, deep ruts were formed, rocks erode as you twist your throttle up, good thing is there are no more goats around to spoil the day.

Anyway, overall it was a fun filled day, so i sure hope the track gets developed again and more people will visit the place.


June 27, 2008

Going over whoops

by: Tim Ferry and Paul Gutierrez 917 (Siambxr)


“Staying on top of the bumps is the best way to approach the whoops, when it’s possible. You want to come into them with as much momentum and speed as you can, especially if you are planning on keeping the bike on top and skimming over them.”

To do this; coming in with a higher gear than you might normally hit a rhythm or jump section in. “Sometimes I actually come into long whoop sections in fourth gear. If you go in with a low gear, your bike will wind out and your suspension will get loaded. Instead, try a high gear; one that will pull you through the bumps on the powerband, but just barely.”

Staying toward the back of the bike is also an important step in tackling sections like this. If you lean too far forward, your front end will gain weight and have a tendency to get caught up. This is what you don’t want; the minute your front end gets grabbed by a sharp bump, going over the bars is almost guaranteed.


When turning these sections into doubles and triples, the most important thing to remember is that you need to stay neutral on the bike. You also need to be completely confident with your throttle and clutch skills, as this is ultimately the way that you will propel your bike through the section. “It’s all in your throttle control and clutch technique. You have to find the right RPM that will allow you to seat-bump the obstacles, and once you are in a long section.


Some whoops are not very deep, but they are deceiving because they are slippery and hard-packed. You have to be really careful when it comes to a set of whoops like this because you can get in over your head really quickly. You can’t just hold your throttle wide open because of their size; they’re still big enough to swallow you up, but not big enough to double or triple through. The distance between each bump and the texture of the dirt have everything to do with how to tackle a set of whoops, and for these particular ones it’s best to carefully blitz through them.

To start with, I hold my front wheel up as I am coming into them and set it down around the second or third whoop. The object is to skim across the top of the whoops, while never letting your bike sink into them. As my back wheel goes over the first one I actually accelerate in order to keep the bike leveled out. I try to push my body down over the back of the bike in order to keep the back end down. That way, the rear shock does not kick up like it would off of a jump. Under acceleration, your back wheel will naturally drop. I stay more towards the rear of the bike until I get near the end of the set.

It is very important that you don’t enter with the throttle wide open. In fact, you should keep the power steady through the whole set. I keep the throttle at around a quarter to half of the way open while I am in a set of whoops. This will help to keep the bike level. The last thing you want is for your front wheel to drop in between a set, even if they are shallow like these. It will cause your momentum to break and could ultimately kick you over the bars! Once the bike is leveled out in the whoops, you can begin to pick up speed through them.

You never want to jump into a set of whoops like this right off the bat. You’ll never be able to time them. If you try this, your front wheel will dive because most of the time you’re not sure where you are going to land. Your timing will be off all the way through the set because your front wheel is not hitting the top of the whoops like it should.

On this particular set, the first one is bigger than the rest of them. Also, you are coming out of a gully when entering them, which is why I pick my front wheel up. Sometimes when they are set up like this you can almost “bunny hop” your bike until it’s level and keep it that way all the way through the set. The idea is to get your front wheel and your back wheel to hit each one of the whoops. Your body needs to stay more towards the back of the bike when going through them. This will help in keeping the front end of your bike light and it won’t want to dig down in between a set.

Even if the whoops were deeper, I would still approach them the same way as I just described. All of the principles still apply. However, if they were farther apart, you could actually go faster through them. If they were bigger, it would not be as tough to get your front wheel to land on top of them. To an extent, bigger is easier, but once you get to the three foot stadium size, they become more difficult.”


“As a general rule, I always shift up when coming into a set of whoops. In Supercross I usually ride most of the track in second gear, but when I approach a set of whoops I always shift to either third or possibly fourth. The reason to up-shift is to keep the bike neutrally powered all the way through the whoops. You don’t want your bike to be topping out or hitting the rev limiter when you’re deep into a set. Every time your back wheel is hitting a whoop, it should be getting power to the ground. If the power is not getting to the rear wheel, the front end is going to want to dive.”


“The worst thing to do is to come into a set of whoops too fast. I see a lot of riders try to go fast into them—they hit the first one, get airborne, the next thing you know they are skipping three or four whoops. It sounds like it would be faster, and it is, providing you know exactly where to land. Most amateur riders can’t predict exactly where they are going to land, and their timing is going to be off all the way through the set. Only advanced riders should be trying such a move. By going faster and jumping into them, it makes it harder to time the entire set and you wind up losing time rather than gaining any. The right speed is going to be different for everybody, depending on how comfortable you are in the set. The more comfortable you are, the quicker you can approach a set. Remember, the faster you come in, the more you have to push down on your bike to keep it on the ground.”

Mud Man

June 27, 2008

Prep Your Bike
When the weather is bad, one thing we notice in every pro pit, is mechanics meticulously preparing their bikes for the mud. This often includes spraying key areas with silicone spray to prevent mud accumulation, as well as weather-proofing the airbox to keep water out. Pro mechanics–like Sobe/Samsung Mobile/Honda’s Naveen Dassanayake–pack foam into parts of the bike where mud might build up (check out the photos of Naveen from Binghamton this weekend, as he prepared Josh Grant’s bike for the mud). On the factory bikes, it is also common to see handguards, solid mud brake rotors and other trick parts to help beat the elements.

Keeping the bike prepped also means taking care of it between motos. In addition to the usual stuff (adjusting the chain, etc), it is ideal if you can completely wash the bike down to remove excess mud. If you don’t have access to a pressure washer at your local track, at least scrape off as much mud as possible. It is amazing how much weight accumulated mud can add to your bike.

For more info and details on mud-proofing your bike, check out this past Tuesday Tip.

Stay Loose
Move with your bike. The mud and ruts are going to cause the bike to want to move around a lot more than usual. Move with it!

It’s All About the Lines
Generally, the better traction is in the ruts. As riders repeatedly go through a rut, the tires dig down to the dry stuff beneath the mud. However, watch out for ruts that are too deep and could end up getting you stuck.

Keep Moving!
The best thing to help get you through the mud is to maintain your momentum. Stay on the throttle and keep that big machine moving through the slop. Keep the front end light by staying on the gas and keeping your weight back. This will help to prevent the front end from digging in and taking you down. If you have to shut the throttle down, get back on it right away. Even in slow sections, some throttle is always better than none.

Remember to keep your throttle control smooth. If you are too quick with the throttle, you will end up spinning your back tire and could easily slide out.

Use Your Feet
It sounds silly, but in the really deep stuff you can use your legs almost like paddles. Stay on the gas, keep your feet moving and power your way through it. Your feet will help keep you upright, and in really thick mud can help move you forward as well.

Don’t let your fear of the mud keep you from riding in it. It is far better to get some time fine-tuning your techniques on practice days than to be unprepared and face bad weather on a race day. So the next time you wake up to cloudy skies, call-in sick and head to the track!

article from Naveen Dassanayake (Team Amsoil Honda)